New York - October 03, 2007

Come to a Crossroads

Allen & Delancey Restaurant Opens

We can’t say much about the future, but we’ve seen the present, and it’s looking mighty good.

Culinarily speaking, if nothing else.

Allen & Delancey, which opens today on the Lower East Side, feels like a funky but elegant password-protected club — all dark wood, exposed brick, candles, and old books. (Who cares if we never see another sleek white surface again?)

But there’s no secret here. Please, have a seat at the communal table. And order guinea hen terrine with ham knuckle; duck with turnip confit; or the understated yet elaborate cabbage, beef, and onions. The menu is very of-the-moment — seasonal, local — with serious technique behind it.

French-trained English chef Neil Ferguson has worked in Michelin-starred kitchens and at Gordon Ramsay in NYC. This past spring he (along with the A&D team) overhauled the kitchen at the Monteverde Inn in the Hudson River Valley.

He’s looking really sprightly for someone who hasn’t slept since 2005.

Then again, he has a lot to look forward to.

Allen & Delancey, 115 Allen Street, at Delancey Street (212-253-5400).