Food & Drink

Old Home on the Grange

It was déjà vu.

We went to check out Commerce, a new West Village restaurant, and instead got a time warp back to Grange Hall, the much-missed late- ’90s stomping ground. The gorgeous old bar. The mural on the back wall. The art deco booths.

Only everything here is new or restored. It’s like meeting the identical twin you never knew your best friend had.

If these walls could talk, their tale would begin with a Prohibition speakeasy, which gave way to Blue Mill, the 1940s restaurant whose name is still on the wall outside (look up). Then came Grange Hall, then another short-lived Blue Mill.

Highlights from the new American menu include beef tataki, chestnut pappardelle with boar ragu, and “things to share” — beef shank, leg of lamb, Porterhouse steak.

June, a nice lady who’s lived upstairs for almost 50 years, says it reminds her of the old old Blue Mill.

We’re just glad the place go back to its roots. Again.

Commerce, 50 Commerce Street, between Bedford and Barrow Streets (212-524-2301). Opening Thursday with a 20 percent discount for the first week.