Food & Drink

Mamma Mia!

Int., East 58th Street, midmorning.

People, people: We’re opening a restaurant today. Mia Dona! It screams hit.

The star is Michael Psilakis — yeah, yeah, the one who revolutionized Greek food in New York. Only he’s doing casual, inexpensive Italian here because that’s all anyone wants to eat this year. And anyway, he was cooking Italian on Long Island when he met his partner, Donatella Arpaia.

Can I get this room split into sections already? Three dining areas — and let’s send the homey theme home. Banquettes in the den, zebra carpet in the dining room, and in the library some … books.

Will someone bring me some food? A braised breast of veal, a little burrata with blood orange, some damn gnudi? Is that so much to ask for?

The things I do for you people.

Curtain. (And showtime.)

Mia Dona, 206 East 58th Street, between Second and Third Avenues (212-750-8170).

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206 E 58th St
bt 2nd & 3rd Aves
New York, NY 10022