New York - July 16, 2008

Welcome to New Deli

Delicatessen Restaurant Opens

Far be it from us to bemoan innovation in the face of tradition.

But we did a split-take when Buffa’s, our beloved Nolita greasy spoon, closed. (The hangover-curing fries! The movie-themed subs! The waitress who let us write our own order tickets!)

It’s been transformed into Delicatessen and opens Friday. Despite its humble name (the owners also did Cafeteria; smell a theme?), the restaurant has all the modern fixings: garage doors that open onto the street, wood plank walls, Terry Richardson polaroids on the menu. There are two lounges downstairs: a sunken glass atrium with graffiti’d walls and a minibar with small bottles.

They’re serving diner-inspired comfort food: short rib Stroganoff, Reuben fritters, and chopped liver.

Yeah, the original owner is still involved.

But we’ll have to come up with a new usual.

Delicatessen, 54 Prince Street, at Lafayette Street (212-226-0211).