Online - July 29, 2008

Beat the Hush

Gjelina Restaurant Opens

The G in Gjelina is silent.

But now that the restaurant is open for dinner on Abbot Kinney, the spot is anything but quiet.

Snag a couch by the fire pit in the backyard or stay indoors under the high ceilings and recycled chandeliers and take a table for two, a booth in the pocket-size private room, or a seat at one of three farm-style, communal tables.

Then you’re ready for some pure, simple, downright rustic cooking. Aside from oysters and the charcuterie and cheese bar delights, the menu’s mainly farmers market driven, with fresh salads; wood-oven specialty pizzas; and plates of Niman Ranch pork belly, jidori chicken with escarole, and white prawns with chili.

Make some noise.

Gjelina, 1429 Abbot Kinney Boulevard, between Milwood and California Avenues, Venice (310-450-1429).