Fried chicken reaches bacon-like proportions here in NYC, with chef-driven restaurants (Locanda Verde, Momofuku, Buttermilk Channel) featuring the dirtiest of birds on their menus.

But nowhere is it as prominent as Hill Country Chicken, a fresh fast food joint opening Wednesday in the Flatiron. All-natural, crispy-fried goodness is the main event (pick breasts, thighs, wings, and drumsticks a la carte), served on a TV dinner tray in a ’50s-era Sears catalog kitchen (canary yellow Formica, Sputnik lamps, chrome).

Prepare for greasy fingers: Most everything can be eaten without utensils — hand-cut fries, oh-so-buttermilky biscuits, miniature pie rounds. Actually, there’s a whole pie program, with three-, five-, and eleven-inch offerings such as bourbon pecan, banana cream, and double cherry, along with happy hour (holy salted margarita slice!) and a separate counter for quick ordering.

Did we mention it’s all from scratch? And an actual genteel Southern lady runs the retrofitted kitchen (the same Elizabeth Karmel who runs Hill Country Barbecue). Downstairs, a vintage rec room is ready for private parties. Book first and be one cool chick.

Hill Country Chicken, 1123 Broadway, at 25th Street (212-257-6446).

Photo: Courtesy of Hill Country Chicken

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