For food fiends with the palate but not the purse for Italian masterpieces like Convivio and Marea, let us introduce the most populist meal of the day at Michael White’s most accessible project to date: Osteria Morini.
The new osteria (translation: an eatery with an emphasis on maintaining a steady clientele) celebrates the riches of Emilia-Romagna, birthplace of Bolognese and region where White met his dapper mentor, Gianluigi Morini.
It’s cozy (tight seating, rustic decor) and sexy (wine casks, vermouth on tap) and serves superlatives on a plate from 7 a.m. to 1 a.m. Every top-notch ingredient is unabashedly imported, in that Eataly kind of way.
For breakfast, eggs from the brick oven meet prosciutto, truffle butter, braised oxtail, or marrow croutons. Creamy polenta is sweetened with mascarpone. Juices are apricot, peach, and pear. Homemade whole grain cereals are served with Battenkill Farms milk.
Pastry chef Heather Bertinetti’s polenta muffins, pancetta scones, raspberry bombolini, and focaccina, along with a proper Italian coffee, might blow your mind. And it’s just around the corner from Soho’s most Twittery, media-and-carbohydrate-drenched hangout. But change is worth the effort.
Osteria Morini, 218 Lafayette Street, between Spring and Kenmare Streets (212-965-8777). Opening soon; call before going.
Photo: Janelle Jones
If you think breakfast looks good, get a load of Osteria Morini’s dinner slide show.
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