Nick Morgenstern is leaving Kings County. And he’s taking New Brooklyn cuisine with him.
The little American bistro has outer-borough-size plans. The backyard will make way for a kitchen garden; an enormous basement allows for butchering, curing, pickling, and ice cream manufacturing.
Coziness comes courtesy of the bearded brothers Haslegrave, who’ve made everything by hand — subway-tiled booths (for six!), bread pan light boxes, and a croquet mallet chandelier.
Adjacent to the open kitchen (where they’re plating gorgeous roast lamb shoulder and tri-tip steak) are mini bleachers of oysters and chilled mussels for seafood towers.
Crab deviled eggs, croquettes, and other happy hour snacks support Leif Huckman’s (Marlow & Sons, Freemans) classy wine cocktails, which whet the appetite without making one lush — for the ride back to Brooklyn.
Goat Town, 511 East 5th Street, between Avenues A and B (212-687-3641).
Photo: Janelle Jones