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Pegu Club bartender and food writer’s establishment defies all structured mealtimes. It’s an eclectic cafe (Counter Culture coffee, egg creams, baked goods), a bar (cocktails inspired by an international adventurer from the ’40s), and a nighttime eatery (small plates, sandwiches, and entrees by former Prune chef Adam Baumgart).
Fort Defiance, 365 Van Brunt Street, Red Hook (347-453-6672 or fortdefiancebrooklyn.com).
A mouse made of Swiss? Now that’s irony.