August 21, 2007

Swing, Batter Batter

BarFry Opens

And now we come to the forbidden (and therefore alluring) use of the F-word, whose sheer profanity makes you want to curse whatever it is your conscience told you to boil, bake, or poach.

Screw the guilt and order it fried at BarFry, a Japanese tempura house opening tomorrow night in the WV.

Sit elbow to elbow at the bar or park on a banquette — chopsticks poised and ready to snatch a hot shrimp from the cooling racks.

Determined to give grease a run for its money, chef Josh DeChellis (Sumile Sushi) formulated a batter that scores high on crispiness and low on oil absorption.

Primed to pluck the heartstrings (without clogging the arteries) are small bites of seafood (scallops, crab cakes), veggies (shiitake, pumpkin), and meat (pork dumplings, chicken fried steak) with dipping sauces.

And there’s more for the picking, like hearty po’boys, beef beignets, bar sides, cocktails, and desserts to round out the meal.

We swear.

BarFry, 50 Carmine Street, between Bedford and Bleecker Streets (212-929-5050 or barfrynyc.com).