April 11, 2008

Up the Antipasto

Bar Milano Opens

We’ve gotten so used to chefs going casual that we forgot they could go the other direction.

But the ’inoteca gang is upping their gastrogame at Bar Milano, opening today.

They’ve gone uptown, with a Third and 24th location (cue this resto wasteland singing arias of joy), and upscale, trading rustic exposed brick for beautiful marble panels.

Patata imbottito — an antipasto of potato, egg, caviar, and fonduta — is ’inoteca’s truffled egg toasts all grows up. The early word is strong on handmade pastas, especially ricotta-and-chard-filled concesi and razor clam and squid pici. You won’t want to share lobster risotto or the pork chop with mustard fruit and escarole. Save room for dessert, a twist on the Napoleon with blood orange sherbet, almond sorbet, and pistachio ice cream.

They’re serving 7 a.m.-3 a.m.

Long hours befit lofty ambitions.

Bar Milano, 323 Third Avenue, at 24th Street (212-683-3035).