Humming with young boho buzz, Cape Town has emerged from its rocky past as the creative capital of Africa. From high-stakes adventures (paragliding off Signal Hill) to creature comforts (crisp, local sauvignon blancs), the city will leave you breathless.
GPS
While the day away in City Bowl’s historic open-air markets, public gardens, and cobblestoned pedestrian malls dating back to the 17th century’s Dutch East India Company. Tamboerskloof has chic outdoor cafes and prime-time people-watching. Style junkies should head to emerging neighborhoods Woodstock (for design collectives and art galleries), Bo-Kaap (for colorful cottage architecture), and de Waterkant (for a hopping gay scene).
NEST
To experience the social swirl at its best, stay within easy access of Kloof Street. Kick up your heels at Tamboerskloof’s sleek and chic Kensington Place (38 Kensington Crescent; +27-21-424-4744) for primo pampering (like your suite sprinkled with rose petals).
The Airstream Penthouse Trailer Park atop the new Grand Daddy (38 Long Street; +27-21-424-7247) offers a campy-cool vibe in the form of seven vintage caravans refurbished by local artists and set against stunning Table Mountain. Trailers have themes — Afro Funk, Love of Lace, and Goldilocks and the Three Bears. Sip Castle lager at the rooftop bar and catch a flick at The Pink Flamingo outdoor cinema. Really, now. Who said trailer trash was a uniquely American phenomenon?
INGEST
Native glamazons start the day with Ouma Rusks, the South African equivalent of a biscotti, and yummy meia de leites (espresso with steamed milk) at Vida e Caffe (34 Kloof Street; +27-21-426-0627). For lunch, grab a quiche at Melissa’s (94 Kloof Street; +27-21-424-5540), which has an awesome pay-per-kilo buffet. Thirsty? Sundowners are a Capetonian institution. Snag a harborside table at Cape Grace’s Bascule (West Quay Road; +27-21-410-7100) and choose from more than 400 whiskeys. The largest single malt collection in the Southern hemisphere, it’s a whiskey lover’s wet dream.
INVEST
Share the love with jealous pals back home and swing through the historic Greenmarket Square (54 Shortmarket Street) for authentic African curios like Hutu masks, soapstone giraffe sculptures, and wooden rhino salad tongs. Saturday mornings, the city’s creative cognoscenti descend upon Woodstock’s vibrant Neighbourgoods Market (373-375 Albert Road; +27-21-448-1438). Tarts, curries, and biltong (South African beef jerky) are a must. And make room for one-of-a-kind textiles, vintage dresses, and handcrafted charm necklaces.
DIGRESS
For old-world glamour and traditional Afrikaans fare, stop by Sunday jazz brunch at Steenberg Hotel and Winery in Constantia Valley (10802 Steenberg Estate, Tokai Road; +27-21-713-2222), the oldest vineyard on the Western Cape. (Owner Graham Beck’s brut NV is what the Obamas popped on election night.)
For insider access to vineyards, hook up with Roar Africa. Its people have been in the region for eleven generations, and co-founder Deb Calmeyer can impress the pickiest oenophile. The VIP visit to UK diamond king Laurence Graff’s new winery, Delaire Graff Estate (P.O. Box 3058, Stellenbosch; +27-21-885-8160), gets you into the off-limits barrel room and a sneaky sampling straight from the casks. (The property’s chic David Collins-designed boutique hotel is set to open next year.)
THE REST
No snoozing for you: There’s high-voltage adrenalin and raw wildlife at every turn. Swim with sharks at Seal Island. Ride big waves at Muizenberg Beach. Hike Table Mountain for sweeping views of the city and the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. Visit indigenous penguins at Boulders Beach. And catch a glimpse of the only free roaming white lions in the world at Sanbona Wildlife Reserve (+27-28-572-1824).
Don’t worry about the eternal flight home. You’ll be sleeping the whole way.
Photos: Courtesy of Kelley McMillan; Courtesy of The Grand Daddy; Courtesy of Cape Grace; Courtesy of Neighbourgoods Market; Courtesy of Delaire Graff Estate; Courtesy of Sanbona Game Reserve
Posted by NYchic on Nov 19, 2009 12:51:19 PM
While macbabe's heart is in the right place, her knowledge base is off a bit. While I am no huge fan of the Dutch's colonizing practices or the Africaaner government mid to late 20th century, The Xhosa and Zulu were not there and 400 years of a cuisine sort of qualifies it as "traditional." Additionally, what does she think the Craft markets mentioned are? I would also recommend the Red and Blue sheds down at the waterfront near the V&A and a walk from one end of Long Street to the other for interesting shopping. In the wine country, Waterford's tasting, pairing their home made chocolates with the wines is great fun, and the Glen Carlou tasting room and art collection is fabulous. Finally, most SA'ers want to talk about their past and the problems and there are many tours of the Districts around CT (on which this summer's District 9 is based) that take you into the settlements, the local orphanages and community centers. Lots of clean up going on for the Soccer Cu[p, so nice time to go!
Posted by mothnm on Nov 19, 2009 9:17:48 AM
Political hotbed here. Adding another log to the fire. News reports that it's open season violence against lesbians in Cape Town. Your suggestions sound wonderful but but but.
Posted by Greenermags on Nov 18, 2009 10:13:54 PM
My favorite city in the world! We created an entire issue around it. The local artists, designers, markets... Http://greenermags.com/frmag4 thanks for featuring.
Posted by May23 on Nov 18, 2009 6:28:10 PM
'Macbabe' raises some interesting points. One could also argue that about 400 years in a place is enough to warrant a label of "traditional" for cuisine (or anything else) irrespective of the approaches used to settle the area which I am by no means condoning. In fact back in the 17th C when the Dutch arrived there were not many people on the Cape Peninsula and there is not much to report on in terms of their "truly traditional" foodways. The "Cape Seafood Plate" on the menu of the recommended restaurant may approximate a lucky dinner/catch from that time. Living in or visiting Cape Town you will find that many Capetonians of all races actually do consider "Traditional Afrikaans fare" to be part of their own food culture. This is because it is a blend of idigenous tribes food, Dutch, and Malaysian fare. Actually the "original tribes" of and immigrants to this area have blended along with their food. Remember this is not originally a Zulu, Xhosa or other, as you said, "black population" area. Cape-Malay people speak Afrikaans. This is why Afrikaans fare is, in fact, more traditional in Cape Town than any other fare imported from people to the north. I would still recommend a trip to a simple African restaurant, but for different reasons. Since the article is about Cape Town, I don't think flying to Johannesburg for the Apartheid museum is relevant- there are other pertenant struggle-related museums such as at Robben Island. There is room for more mention of important South African history but I think you'll find most South Africans have moved on and embraced a new South Africa and would not be offended by this article. S. African in New York
Posted by ChristinaOK on Nov 18, 2009 3:39:31 PM
Way to go, DC! Cape Town is such an exciting and beautiful city! I would highly recommend a vist to Robben Island to learn more about the raw and recent history of South Africa. Everywhere I went on my visit, I found warm and friendly people all over the country. The landscape throughout the country, and especially in the Cape, is breathtaking. There are fabulous trips from the city (Stellenbosch, Boulders Beach, Cape Point) and plenty to do within Cape Town itself (eat, drink, shop, people watch). Hop on the next plane and enjoy!
Posted by macbabe on Nov 18, 2009 3:26:49 PM
Traditional Afrikaans fare??! What is "traditional" about the white elite's foodways? Can I tell you just how offensive this little 'report' was to me? You're glamorizing the colonialization of a Black majority country that was under the brutual rule of the racist Dutch conquerors for decades. This is not so easily forgotten or forgiven - and it shouldn't be! Did it ever occur to you to offer information on the TRULY TRADITIONAL foodways of the various tribes who were there long before the Dutch decided to take over? Nowhere in your report do I see any information about the Black population's museums or restaurants, their crafts and fine art, etc. Why is it that you didn't recommend that people make the trip to Johannesburg to see the Apartheid Museum? It's a short plane ride away and the information and understanding of the entirety of the population and their relationships to one another is something EVERYONE should see and begin to understand. It would be most helpful if, for once, you stepped outside of your glibness and truly looked at the sort of information you're giving!
Posted by edman on Nov 26, 2009 2:19:12 PM
First of all, the article is only covering Cape Town, not Johannesburg. Secondly, the country should not solely be identified with its rocky past. A sign of progress is when a location can be identitified by its own merrits and progress, rather than its history of atrocities. This article presents Cape Town as a destination in its own right- cosmopolitan, bubbling with creativity, and alive.