FollowOnline - January 13, 2010
Sri You Around
DailyCandy Goes to Sri Lanka
The civil war is mostly over, and Sri Lanka is now stable and safe — and as beautiful, tropical, and friendly as ever. The conflict was primarily in the north, and our itinerary will have you roaming the south for adventure (elephant safaris), history (colonial fort towns, old Buddhist temples), rain forests (and mountains and tea plantations), and gorgeous beaches. It’s pretty much the best place we’ve ever been.
GPS
The island is far from everywhere, so you’ll want to stay about ten days. Jet Airways flies from the U.S. to India and connects to Colombo. (And why don’t all airlines serve curry?) For the best weather and the calmest seas, go between December and April. August and September fall between the monsoon seasons, but our October rainstorms lasted only a few minutes (and made for great photos). Small roads means it takes a while to get around, but the passing scenery is entertaining and captivating: water buffalo in rice paddies, men biking in plaid sarongs, palm trees as small as you and as tall as buildings. When you get thirsty, stop at a grubby lean-to along the road and get the guy to machete open a king coconut. Everyone says it’s the best hangover cure. (Check out our Sri Lanka photo gallery.)
Kandy Whirls
To decompress from the flights, spend a night near the airport at The Wallawwa. Otherwise, head inland to the Kandy District and The KandyHouse, the eight-room hotel that was once the 1800s home of a ruling family, to spend a few days visiting the too-cute Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage, the bird-rich Peradeniya Botanic Gardens, and the brilliantly named Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.
Tea for Two
Next stop, the mountains of tea country. Until 2004, Sri Lanka was the world’s biggest tea exporter (cuppa Ceylon, indeed), and touring a plantation is really interesting and beautiful. Rest your head at Dilmah’s Tea Trails, a hotel of four colonial bungalows that used to house estate managers. Castlereagh has the best views; Tientsin has the most beautiful gardens.
You’re Wella-come
Now you can go to the beach. The swank Amanwella compound consists of bungalows scattered across a coconut grove outside Tangalle. The service is Amanawesome, but prices are more affordable than Aman’s usual rates (a rare civil war perk). Force yourself away from the blissful beach to visit Udawalawe National Park. You’ll see monkeys and peacocks, but elephants are the main event. Please tip your guides well: They’re all volunteers. Also great is the ancient Mulgirigala Buddhist temple complex. Brave the ascent up the mountain and you’ll be rewarded with insane views and a blessing from one of the monks in residence on the way down. Farther west around Weligama Bay, Mirissa Hills is a gorgeous art-filled home in the hills on a working cinnamon estate.
The Tap of the World
Sri Lanka is incredibly chic, very India meets Vietnam. (You’ll hear architect Geoffrey Bawa’s name a lot.) But the most breathtaking place to stay is Taprobane, a five-bedroom house on a tiny private island just off the coast. There’s no ferry: You wade through the Indian Ocean, carrying your clothes above your head (yes, really). The mythology speaks for itself: Founded by a descendant of a Napoleonic general, it used to be the residence of Paul Bowles, as well as fashion icon Isabella Blow. Now it’s part of the chic hotel chainlet Taprobane Collection, which also includes The Sun House and The Dutch House in Galle. If you don’t stay at the hotels, at least go for dinner and be on the lookout for Henri Tatham, the fabulous manager.
Good Galle
Walled fort town Galle was colonized by Arab traders, then the Portuguese, then the Dutch — and all left their mark. Amangalla may be the ultimate colonial fantasy, you’ll note, as you sip arrack sours on a rattan lounge chair at sunset, in recovery from the Ayurvedic consult and baths treatment at the exquisite spa. If the delicious hoppers at breakfast get you in the culinary mood, take a cooking lesson (click here for an easy curry recipe). And spend time with Olivia Richli, the kind and gorgeous general manager (who helped us plan this amazing itinerary), and ask for stories about Nesta Brohier, the grand dame who used to live in the hotel (with her much younger lover), and about taking in hundreds of locals left homeless by the tsunami. Richli can also help arrange a tour of Handunugoda Tea Estate, where you can watch glove-clad women clip white tea leaf by leaf with small scissors and learn how it is harvested, dried, and aged. Handunugoda brews make great souvenirs, as do bottles of arrack, but for something longer lasting, pick up handwoven napkins and coconut shell serving spoons at Barefoot. Galle Fort Hotel is a more budget option, but the perks at Amangalla are worth the splurge.
Really, there’s only one downside to Sri Lanka: Eventually, you have to leave.
Take the hard part out of it: Book your trip with DailyCandy’s Travel Desk at blacktomato.co.uk. Want more eye candy? Breeze through our Sri Lanka photo gallery.
Photos: Courtesy of The Wallawwa; Courtesy of Tea Trails; Courtesy of Amangalla.
Great Dals of Fire
Posted by Gajendran on Dec 2, 2011 5:18:45 PM
Sri Lanka was able to rid itself from brutal terrorism in mid 2009 after a 27 year curse, which was waged by a bunch of low lifes with the help of the funds received from frustrated diasporas around the world in terms of separatism. Now those disporas have no way to perpotrate atrocities, they harness all their efforts and money to pinch the vastly developing Sri Lanka by tarnishing it's image, publishing unsubstanciated allegations. I am from the same diaspora who often visit that hospitable nation. I am happy to recommend any visit to anywhere in that country any time today. The problems lie today within the diasporas, and not in that beautiful country, for sure. the diasporas can not come to terms with the new developments of the island until they begin to realise and accept they are SRI LANKANS and not eelamists.
Posted by tmorgan1000 on Dec 4, 2010 11:34:08 AM
You can view the "minimum collateral dammage" at http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x88far_genocide-in-sri-lanka-sos-aufruf-an_news and see how the Sinhalese dominated Sri Lankan Forces deals with Tamils at http://www.channel4.com/news/sri-lanka-execution-video-new-war-crimes-claims or at http://www.tamilnet.com/art.html?catid=13&artid=33147 or read a good analysis of the Sexual Violence Against Tamil Women issue at http://dbsjeyaraj.com/dbsj/archives/1149 An unbiased over all view of the conflicts history "Time for Sinhalese 'victors' to unclench mailed fist" by Gwynne Dyer http://www.canberratimes.com.au/news/opinion/editorial/general/time-for-sinhalese-victors-to-unclench-mailed-fist/1436888.aspx?storypage=0 Since there has been no 'unclenching' of the 'mailed fist' it is not suprising that the Tamil diaspora, many of whom were forced out of the country due to the Black July '83 riots, are campaigning against that state and will continue to do so.
Posted by cyril on Mar 23, 2010 5:38:18 PM
I agree with the person who rightfully mentioned that the Tamil Diaspora in western countries who supported the pro- LTTE (terrorist group) are still trying to paint a bad picture of Sri Lanka. They have a lot to answer for when considering the damage their dollars and pounds did to destroy innocent lives ( Tamil, Sinhalese, Muslims) and the innocent child soldiers whose lives have been horribly tormented. Now, they should use their money to help the country instead of having so much hate.
Posted by dineshwaran on Feb 5, 2010 1:20:31 AM
The nasty comments about Sri Lanka is all spread by diaspora who are enjoying refugee status in other countries. They are unfortunately ignorant of the situation in Sri Lanka. I am a Tamil from Sri Lanka and I can safely say that the tourists arrival are increasing and they enjoy every penny they spend. These days I see people from all over the world in Sri Lanka. The country has returned to peace and the country is growing towards prosperity.
Posted by Lasantha on Jan 23, 2010 6:29:30 AM
SriLanka the country which drinks Blood. The country which kills Tamilians, kill children, bomb school's and hospital, stone mentally ill people to death. Wanna see Hell Visit Srilanka, Warning No one can save you
Posted by NewHope on Jan 22, 2010 1:08:07 PM
Auyubowan, Sri Lanka had the worlds worst terrorist problem. The terrorists would fly over SL and bomb innocent civilians. They were designated as a Terror group by 30 different countries. To defeat that menance, the democratically elected government had to wage a brutal war. In the last days of the war, the terrorists used women and children as Human Sand bags. Inspite of that, the war was won with minimum of collateral dammage. There is claims of massive civilian casualties, but non of these claims have been substantiated. Also note, these terrorists are backed by non Sri Lankans, and that is why they took civilian hostages. The people making false accusation are non Sri Lankans. All Sri Lankan, regardless of ethnicity, race, caste, creed, or, religion today wants a chance at peace and prosperity. Don't listen to the non Sri Lankan haters commenting here. You visit to SL will help a lot of war victims recover. PEACE.
Posted by davidson on Jan 21, 2010 1:53:15 PM
http://uthr.org/SpecialReports/spreport32.htm A Marred Victory and a Defeat Pregnant with Foreboding, 10 June 2009: ‘Sinhalese’ fishermen have been brought under naval protection to fish in the sea off Mannar Island without any restriction. The local Tamil and Muslim fishermen are allowed only about four days a week on the pretext of security for some minor naval movements. The trawlers with Sinhalese fishermen use large Japanese nets of a kind now banned internationally, which drag the seabed, pulling out coral, the nets of local fishermen and damaging the breeding ground, eggs, weeds and fish fodder. On 28th May the Tamil fishermen protested and had an argument with a group of Sinhalese trawler fishermen, who using the communication set the Navy provided, informed them of the boat number. When the Tamil fishermen came ashore, naval men who were waiting for them with batons, made the Tamils kneel and beat them up severely.'' http://blog.unwatch.org/?cat=43 Rights Violating States Attempt Response to Accusations, 8 June 2009: ‘’Today at the U.N. Human Rights Council, after a number of states and NGOs accused Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Zimbabwe, China, and North Korea of violating human rights, these countries demanded their rights of reply to respond to allegations or deflect blame by pointing to purported abuses of their critics’’.
Posted by davidson on Jan 21, 2010 1:49:11 PM
1. Death threats to MP Gajendran, Jaffna University community 2.Less than 55% of the total 6,23,678 polling cards in Jaffna peninsula has been delivered to the registered voters while nearly 45% of them lie undelivered in Jaffna post offices, Jaffna Election Department officials said 3.Tamil doctor on the mat for expressing private opinion, By Namini Wijedasa, 06 December 2009 Life has been OK for us Sinhalese. Some of my University students from the South have no idea about the aerial bombing of Northeast in 80s, 90s and 2000s and worse, no idea about how heavily Northeast has been militarised in the last three decades - it began more than four decades ago. Please think of the Tamils who have been discriminated by all government institutions and esp. the judiciary for 4/5 decades.
Posted by davidson on Jan 21, 2010 1:40:03 PM
1.http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/13/opinion/13iht-edpatten.html Sri Lanka's Choice, and the World's Responsibility, Chris Patten(Co-Chair, International Crisis Group), 12 January 2010 2. http://www.msf.org.uk/articledetail.aspx?fId=top_ten_PR_20091218 Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) releases 12th annual list, 21 December 2009: ‘’Civilians attacked, bombed, and cut off from aid in Pakistan, Somalia, Yemen, Sri Lanka, Afghanistan, and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), 3. http://www1.voanews.com/english/news/asia/Report-Calls-for-Sri-Lanka-to-Urgently-Address-Governance-Issues-79299952.html Report Calls for Sri Lanka to Urgently Address Governance Issues, 15 December 2009: ''In its annual governance report for Sri Lanka, the organization notes some improvement, but says the country's recovery is being hampered by a continued lack of accountability, democracy and transparency.''
Posted by BackFromLanka on Jan 21, 2010 12:20:38 PM
Small correction to what some of the commentors say here. You can now travel all the way up to the northern peninsular by road. Don't expect luxury lodging though. The eastern areas were fully accessible with half decent lodging. I wish Arugam Bay to become a major resort in the east in a few years. The only place people are not allowed to venture in to are areas where the demining teams are at work in the North central parts. However, the road to the extreme north runs through these areas and you can interact with the locals ... quite a few of whom can converse in English. Ask them how it feels now that the war is over...
Posted by davidson on Jan 21, 2010 11:10:49 AM
Have a good time in Southwestern Sri lanka. Do your utmost to Haiti. Also bear Sri lanka, Sudan and Zimbabwe, please. Sri Lanka, Sudan & Zimbabwe, New Year message from The Elders, 20 January 2010: In November we publicly raised serious concerns about the treatment of hundreds of thousands of people who were displaced during the war in the north of Sri Lanka and who are now trying to return home. We will continue to monitor the situation closely. We are also extremely worried about the potential for renewed fighting in Sudan in the coming year – a more coordinated international response is essential. In Zimbabwe we have been supporting initiatives to address the ongoing humanitarian impact of years of misrule, and efforts to build a stable, prosperous and secure future for its people.
Posted by davidson on Jan 21, 2010 10:53:01 AM
If someone believes 9/11 mess is cleaned, they look at appearances.
Posted by davidson on Jan 21, 2010 10:47:37 AM
The writer is talking about the South touring which many have come out ofthe island without the slightest idea of a war for three decades. The South has always been well-protected from the war except for a few suicide attacks from the LTTE. Enjoy the beauty of the South. But don't fail to ask why the Northeast still remains cordoned off from the rest of the island, why aid agencies have been prevented from helping the Tamil IDPs, why ICRC was forced to close down its offices in the East, why MSF has been waiting outside the detention camps with facilities for the battered detainees but not allowed in, why journalists are not yet allowed to see the last battle zone, why they are holding elections when tamils are not yet settled in their homes and not given polling cards, why Tamils' votes don't count, why tamils are second-class citizens, why....
Posted by RussellB on Jan 21, 2010 10:30:33 AM
War is over. But the thuggerism of the regime is not over. White van abductions, killing journalists and all types of human rights violations are rampant in Sri Lanka. This country is listed and ranking lower than Burma, Sudan, Libya. Wait guys, do not jump in because Sri Lankan Tourism Ministry pays to these anti-humans to promote anti-human elements. Please Donate to Haiti victims go elsewhere for the summer vacation.
Posted by MarkSou on Jan 21, 2010 4:53:36 AM
I went to Sri Lanka last month, and I agree it is a stunning place. The people are friendly and helpful. I spoke to the residents, both Sinhala and Tamil and both groups are really happy that the terrorist group LTTE has been defeated. They look forward to a peaceful future. It is pathetic that people who left Sri Lanka are still trying to give it a bad name.
Posted by justLankan on Jan 21, 2010 1:55:30 AM
The 3 decade war is over! We people living in Sri Lanka, be it Tamil or Sinhalese know that! Yes it could have had a better ending but all this seperatist talk doesnt help the future of thousands of tamils actually living in Sri Lanka. It only helps the Tamils who who live cushy lives in the west!
Posted by BackFromLanka on Jan 20, 2010 11:48:27 PM
Looks like the separatist anti-Sri Lanka Tamil brigade has paid a visit to this web site. As someone who returned from the island after a pleasant stay, I can safely say that a visit to the country is the best way to see things for yourself (as what the author has done here). Chances are you won't be dissapointed! Every tourist dollar or euro spent there benefit members of all enthnicities in Sri Lanka as the tourist industry there employ all types. This is what I saw during my stay. Strangely, the Tamil lobby in the west seems to be way more bitter about the end of the civil war than the many Tamils I met in Sri Lanka.
Posted by gemtanya on Jan 16, 2010 6:51:09 PM
Sorry, my comment was not meant as a reply to thirsty but a comment on the article in general. I agree with thirsty 100%
Posted by gemtanya on Jan 16, 2010 6:45:17 PM
Perhaps it would be best to check the on going political and human rights record of a country before waxing lyrical about visiting it, or are the freebies laid on for the travel writers too hard to resist? Vapid, cloying and utterly insipid you might be but does that prevent you from having a concience?
Posted by donuts on Jan 14, 2010 2:15:02 PM
Hmm. I can think of at least ten reasons why Sri Lanka is NOT the best place you've ever been: http://www.boycottsrilanka.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1&Itemid=21
Posted by faykplastickme on Jan 14, 2010 2:01:23 PM
are you freaking kidding me? i can't believe the callousness behind you brushing aside a 25 year civil war that has killed THOUSANDS upon THOUSANDS of people. not only that, but your timing is horrendous! there's escalating violence due to the upcoming election because, guess what, the country is still dealing with instability. a bbc reporter was attacked yesterday! but don't worry, the civil war is MOSTLY over. please buy this hotel deal we're offering.
Posted by Veruca on Jan 13, 2010 6:13:08 PM
"Never mind the civil war"?????? For real? This absurdly glib article dismissing the slaughter of hundreds of thousands of people as "troubles" and touting the war torn island as "chic" would be hilarious as an item in The Onion. Daily Candy, you've just proven your name, indeed: vapid, cloying and utterly insipid. You just lost me as a reader forever.
Posted by ecgroom on Jan 13, 2010 2:51:33 PM
Ummm - you do know that M.I.A. will be knocking on your door soon...right? The NYT included Sri Lanka in a travel piece and she RIPPED into them http://is.gd/6cYFX
Posted by thirsty on Jan 13, 2010 1:55:32 PM
I'm pretty sure there are at least a few Sri Lankans who'd find your dismissive opener about the civil war a touch insensitive. Death and devastation tends to leave a bit of a mark on a place. Then again, I guess it ain't no big thang visiting NYC now that they've cleaned up that damn 9/11 mess.
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Posted by skiz1 on Dec 5, 2011 11:41:14 AM
Don't believe the hype of the Western press (who has been bought and sold by the well-funded pro-LTTE elements within the Tamil Diaspora). After all, were they right about the so called "Weapons of Mass Destruction" in Iraq? I try to stay out of politics, but am sick of trying to defend my country against the malicious attacks from haters whose vitriol you can see here. The bottom line is this: Sri Lanka handled their terrorist problem single-handedly and should be applauded for that. Now all communities on this beautiful island nation are trying to rebuild the country after a 30 year war and get on with real life--raising their families in a peace. This has always been a multi-ethnic community, and it always will be. I just got back from Sri Lanka one week ago, and am happy to report that the place is booming and developing for the first time in 30 years. I even went to Jaffna in the north, and they have put the war behind them and are getting on with the business of growing and developing. I strongly recommend Sri Lanka as THE choicest destination to go to right now.