Online - March 10, 2010

Porto Ricco

DailyCandy Guide to Maremma, Italy

Ditch the motorino on Rome’s congested streets and head two hours north to Maremma, which stretches along the Tyrrhenian Sea from Lazio to Tuscany. Your destination: Monte Argentario, the Italian peninsula where sunflowers salute the sun, hay tumbles through medieval landscapes, and nature lovers converge with yacht owners for country strolls and a relaxed beach scene.

Check In
Chic farm estate and vineyard Antica Fattoria La Parrina has a Laura Ashley-meets-Gucci feeling. It’s the sort of place where a walk through the olive trees and nearby natural reserve ends with a visit to the winery to taste top-rated Tuscan reds Parrina Red Muraccio and Parrina Rosso Riserva.

To rest your head closer to the sea, head to Don Pedro overlooking Porto Ercole on Monte Argentario. The rooms are basic, but you can reserve ocean views for affordable rates between 140 and 190 euros — even in summertime.

Meander
Once home to a thriving Etrurian community, Maremma holds the remains of ancient cities. Get in touch with Etruscan spirits in Cosa, the ancient ghost town with towering views atop Ansedonia, the hill that rich Romans call home in summertime. You can just wander the ruins or pop into Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Cosa on Via Rosmarino (+39-0564-881-1421; no URL).

Back downhill, stroll from Ansedonia to Monte Argentario along the busting beach of La Feniglia and head to Da Braccio for octopus salad and spaghetti alle vongole. Lunch in your bikini — does it get any better? Burn your meal off with a brisk walk through Feniglia Natural Reserve in the WWF Protected Oasis of Orbetello, where deer stroll blithely along the four-mile bike trail.

terme di saturnia!

Recharge
Escape the yacht scene (really, Enzo, you do go on) and trade your Fiat for a dingy. The ferry at Porto Santo Stefano transports you to Isola del Giglio, where the vibe is less Capri chic and more famiglia friendly and the waters are among the most breathtaking in Italy. Pack a picnic and bask under the Tuscan sun.

Known throughout Italy for its thermal waters and healing sulfur baths, hotel and spa Terme di Saturnia has nonintimidating day rates and treatments like the detox raindrop massage and an antiaging facial that uses real gold to turn your glow up to mega.

Pig Out
Learn this phrase: pappardelle al cinghiale. Maremma is famous for its wild boar, and that will be the menu del giorno more often than not. There’s no shortage of hilltop medieval towns with great trattorie a short drive away, but our favorites are Da Maria in Capalbio and Trattoria Antica Aurora in Magliano (12/14, Via Chiasso Lavagnini; +39-564-592030).

Cin Cin
Watch the rich and famous board their yachts over several baretti, an enchanting mix of cream of peach, lime juice, and vodka at Il Baretto in Porto Ercole (54, Via Andrea Doria; +39-0564-832654). Go for sunset and stay into the wee hours.

Stuck at your desk when you’d rather be zooming up the Italian coastline in a convertible. Join the club. Take a virtual trip instead with our photo gallery.

Photos: riccardo08 / Flickr; Courtesy of Hotel Don Pedro; Marco Cadena / Flickr

Countryside, Italian Charm

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COMMENTS

Posted by EscapeArtists on Dec 10, 2011 3:02:32 PM

For some Tuscany means Florence, Siena and Chianti but when you venture southwest you will find the undiscovered area of Maremma. Few Americans have heard of Maremma or know that it has the reputation of being Italy's 'cowboy'country.' Besides producing great wines, a spectacular coastline, and magnificent sandy dunes, the hillside and plains are unforgettable. I particularly favor the inner part of Maremma where you can find peace and a different enogastronomic experience which features a curious melding of Tuscan and American cowboy fare. Slow Food and Slow Tourism is a way of life in Maremma! ~ Elizabeth Condelli

Posted by AnitasItaly on Mar 25, 2010 10:17:34 AM

Go further inland to get the feeling of a Tuscany of long ago around Semproniano and Rocca Albegna, and also explore the fascinating Etruscan sites around Pitigliano and Sovana. For the lovliest coastal walks, where you can have an idyllic swim or can really burn some calories heading uphill to the evocative abandoned abbey of San Rabano, head to the Parco dell'Uccellina. Entrance fee includes transport by park bus from Alberese.

Posted by DonnainMaremma on Mar 11, 2010 3:43:35 AM

Congratulations on capturing some of the wonder of Maremma. La Maremma is, indeed, breathtakingly beautiful and so so special: she never fails to leave a lasting impression on all who visit her. I did and now live here and the beauty of Maremma's landscapes, wildernesses and coastline catch my breath every day. Don't miss also medieval Massa Marittima in the heart of the metilliferous hills, the bay of Cala Violina that sits along the edge of a nature reserve and whose white sands have been known to utter musical notes (no rows of parasols there), or Populonia and the Bay of Baratti where the Etruscans built their only city by the sea - visit and you will instantly know why... there are so many special places. Be prepared to fall in love! Ciao Donna

Posted by GWhit714 on Mar 10, 2010 3:50:18 PM

Maremma sounds incredibly interesting! I have never been to Italy, but I am planning to study abroad next year, so perhaps I will find myself in Maremma someday! This sounds like one of those "best kept secrets" that most tourists don't experience because they think that "major cities" are the most important to visit, so I'm glad I came across this article - it has shown me a part of Italy I would love to visit!

Posted by DawnTreader on Mar 10, 2010 3:46:10 PM

As I read through the article, I had a recollection of those wonderful, endless summer days spent as a toddler in the Tuscan Maremma and on the Argentario Coast. I have memories of visiting most of the places mentioned... simply delightful! I too wish to thank you for having so thoughtfully pointed the spot light on one of the most breathtaking strips of land in Italy. I have been living abroad for a while, but I'm definitively looking forward to taking my children to Tuscany soon and, perhaps, to relax in one of the beautiful venues listed in your post! A.

Posted by Vicky83 on Mar 10, 2010 3:40:06 PM

Maremma here I come! Can't wait to sip some good vino rosso on the beach... Thank you! xxx V.

Posted by vanigliaNY on Mar 10, 2010 3:39:07 PM

Amazing place and amazing tips! I am booking right now :-)

Posted by cfsimon on Mar 10, 2010 3:38:17 PM

This looks amazing, I'm in!! Rome is so hot in the summer so it would be great to get away for a few days to Maremma.

Posted by FranciNY on Mar 10, 2010 3:33:00 PM

Wine, beach, good food.. and a lot of romance.. That's my next trip for sure! Txs for the tips!

Posted by AlexZappa on Mar 10, 2010 3:18:24 PM

This sounds like a truly amazing trip! Thank you so much for posting the article. Considering how close it is from Rome, it seems a great option for a romantic 3-day get-away from any European city! Cheers, A

Posted by ChefDavidS61 on Mar 10, 2010 12:33:35 PM

Thank you for presenting the Maremma and the Argentario Coast. It's a great part of Italy! It is in Porto Santo Stefano where a turning point in my book, Mediterranean Summer, takes place aka an off-the-clock discovery (while working on a private yacht) about food and cooking. And near Porto Ercole, the very chic small and famous resort, Hotel Pellicano. David S.