Food & Drink

Authentic Mexican at La Calaca Feliz

Queso and Then Some

la calaca feliz opens!

Taco night at your house means prefab salsa and a glop of sour cream.

Trade your muy lame routine for dinner at La Calaca Feliz, Tim Spinner and Brian Sirhal’s follow-up to Fort Washington’s Cantina Feliz, opening Thursday.

Both worked under Jose Garces, but tips picked up from Pueblan kitchen staff along the way help keep it authentic. Even the name — a colloquialism for “the happy skeleton” — is foreign to most gringo ears.

Dishes riff on the traditional: Tlayudas (Mexican pizzas) are topped with chorizo and queso fresco; steak marinated in ancho chiles has a hint of spice. Be sure to order the guacamole, made with chunks of fresh fruit or crab meat. Cocktails like the Scarlet Begonia, with hibiscus-infused gin and Cointreau, add a modern spin.

Kudos to the duo on picking a location, considering the Fairmount area’s recent restaurant boom.

Someone’s using his bean.

La Calaca Feliz, 2321 Fairmount Avenue (215-787-9930 or lacalacafeliz.com).

Photo: Thinkstock

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2321 Fairmount Ave
@ N 24th St
Philadelphia, PA 19130