Philadelphia - January 26, 2007

La Vida L’Oca

L’Oca Restaurant Opens

If you ever encounter a goose, you’re likely to learn that it’s a rather wifty creature.

Especially the kind that can lay a golden egg (what a neat party trick!). Which is what Jack Henderson must have been thinking of when he named L’Oca (Italian for “the goose”) in the BYO-bedecked Fairmount neighborhood.

It’s not your typical Italian restaurant: There’s not a drop of red sauce to be found on chef Luca Garutti’s menu (it’s strictly northern). What you will find: fresh, succulent dishes like wild venison served with blueberry and wine sauce; saffron spaghetti with prosciutto, scallops, and oyster mushrooms; pappardelle with goose ragu (yep, the namesake is on the menu). For dessert, try the tiramisu or the chantille cream-filled profiteroles.

The space itself is sleek and elegant, with tall windows and an open kitchen — for those who also like to feast with their eyes.

After one look, you’ll be glad this plan got hatched.

L’Oca, 2025 Fairmount Avenue (215-769-0316).