May 5, 2008

The Gold Standard

Zahav Opens

You used to go to Old City for shows at Khyber and people watching before Johnny Brenda’s opened.

You’ll be going back for Zahav, which opens today. The name means “gold” in Hebrew, and it just might set a new standard in dining.

Michael Solomonov (Xochitl, Marigold Kitchen) and Steven Cook’s newest endeavor serves Middle Eastern food — specifically, modern Israeli cuisine. Start with Israeli salad (cucumber, tomato, parsley), move on to kebabs (Turk has ground beef, pistachios, and mint; Sabra has chicken, sumac, and tahini), and save room for halva semifreddo.

The main dining room is casual — imported limestone floors and rough-hewn tables — and the global wine selection includes many from the Middle East. The curtained-off Quarter is a private room with a fine dining feel and prix-fixe menu.

But we think you’ll prefer the main dining room. The floor-to-ceiling windows make for some excellent people watching.

Zahav, 237 Saint James Place (215-625-8800 or zahavrestaurant.com).