We can’t tell you how good a departure from the norm is. And Stephen Starr’s new restaurant, Parc, is no exception.
Breaking away from Buddakan’s haute aesthetic and Morimoto’s futuristic vibe, Parc will make you feel like you’re eating in a jazz-era French bistro. Or like an extra in a movie.
No wonder. Starr got film set designers to treat the tobacco-stained ceiling and install authentic light fixtures, wiring, switches, and gas lines. They’re not for use, just for show. (Emphasis on “show.”)
The antique bar was flown in from Paris, and the menu is authentically French (escargot, paté, charcuterie). The breads and pastries are made in-house, and the wine list includes enough rare French and American varietals to tempt any palate.
It’s enough to make you not want to return to reality.
Parc, 277 South 18th Street (215-545-2262 or parc-restaurant.com).