Maybe you were mighty blue.
Even thought your life was through.
Then the heavens opened,
And you gazed at Koo Zee Doo.
Yes, we’re taking liberties with Cole Porter. And, no, we’re not making up words.
The name may be nuts, but David Gilberg (Bar Ferdinand, Matyson) and Carla Gonçalves’s new BYO will save your sanity with traditional Portuguese dishes in a homey atmosphere (exposed brick, muted colors, terra-cotta floors).
Share simple, flavorful meals around a family-style table. Don’t miss the grilled sardines over broa (dense cornbread) and roasted peppers, the pan-seared duck rice with three types of pork, or the stewed rabbit with potatoes (an adventurous choice you won’t find many places).
Gonçalves handles the sweet stuff, whipping up chocolate salami and mousse sandwiches and coffee-soaked Maria cookies with buttercream icing.
Just a little voodoo that you-know-who do.
Koo Zee Doo, 614 North Second Street (215-923-8080 or koozeedoo.com).