Being on the leading edge of a push-the-envelope dining scene is all well and good, but fennel dust and seaweed emulsion hardly stick to one’s ribs.
Pizans Italian Seafood Room, a recurring weekend pop-up inside Doctor’s Lounge (the Excelsior’s ’50s-era dive bar, complete with rock-paneled walls and daisy-filled bud vases), scratches that comfort food itch.
Fishermen Ron Galileo and Steven Moran (who is also executive chef) get the day’s catch right from the ocean, and with the help of sous chef and former California Culinary Academy instructor Joe D’Amato, transforms it into dishes like cod cakes with spicy remoulade, cozze e’ vongole al linguine, and fresh halibut topped with blood orange beurre blanc.
Your server and bartender is Moran’s wife (and D’Amato’s cousin), Victoria, who will start crafting cocktail pairings for each dish in a few weeks. Prices and portions are reasonable and large, respectively.
It’s all just like someone’s grandma used to make.
Pizans Italian Seafood Room, Doctor’s Lounge, 4826 Mission Street, at Onondaga Street (415-586-9730 or facebook.com).
Photo: Courtesy of Pizans Italian Seafood Room