The Cliff House may win the city’s prize for staying power.

It was built as a fancy oceanfront resort in 1863. There was a fire. It was rebuilt as a house for the infamous Sutro Baths. There was another fire. It was then restored in 1909 and had a good run — about a century. But it was time for a face-lift. And one with a tip of the hat to the place’s roots.

Sutro’s, now an upscale restaurant, is a modern space that’s all concrete, copper, slate, and glass (skylights and floor-to-ceiling windows — the better to see those sweeping Pacific views). Original art from the Sutro Baths lines the walls, so you can pretend you were there in the good old days, too.

The menu by chef Patrick Clark (of the Ritz Carlton) is heavy on seafood (no shocker there). Starters include Dungeness crab rolls, tea-poached Kahuku shrimp, and pancetta-wrapped organic peaches. Entrées? Swordfish kebabs, seared scallops, and applewood-smoked-bacon-crusted wild salmon. Oh, and dessert! You may be most tempted by the Mexican-chocolate crème brûlée.

Could the fourth time be the charm?

Sutro’s, 1090 Point Lobos Avenue (415-386-3330).