food-drink -

New Jack in the City

The last time you studied Shakespeare, you were more interested in the hottie sitting next to you than in iambic pentameter.

But you’re all grown up now, and that’s all about to change.

Meet Jack Falstaff, one of ol’ Willie’s most enduring characters and the name of the PlumpJack Group’s latest restaurant. Despite the name, you won’t find anything 16th century here. The modern, cube-like main entrance literally lights up SoMa with its soft white glow. Interiors of plush moss and green apple suede cushions complement the dark wood ceilings and sultry lighting.

But chef James Ormsby’s food is the main act. The menu changes weekly, and dishes like wild porcini mushroom and chestnut soup reveal Ormsby’s skill at layering flavors, while the very slow roasted (try twelve hours) Niman Ranch leg of pork is characteristic of his focus on slow cooking. And every dessert is made from organic ingredients.

Now that’s Shakespeare you can sink your teeth into.


Jack Falstaff, 598 Second Street, at Brannan Street (415-836-9239).