Food & Drink

Over the Hills and Far Away

Rain, rain, go away, come again some other day …

Um, as long as you’re talking to the weather, why not order up some bunny-shaped clouds and a few rainbows?

A more realistic plan of escape can be found in Healdsburg, where Cyrus, the restaurant inside Les Mars Hotel, has just opened. The guys behind it, maitre d’ Nick Peyton and chef Douglas Keane, have rock-solid pedigree: Masa’s, the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, Jardiniere, and Gary Danko. The space, which seats 60, is topped by a ceiling of six vaulted domes and feels like a cozy French auberge done up in dark brown and golden hues.

Moments after arrival, canapes are delivered to your table. Next up: The champagne and caviar cart. Then choose a three-, four-, five- or seven-course dinner with dishes like chestnut and sherry soup with black truffle froth; tuna and hamachi tartare; seared scallops with cauliflower cream; and roasted venison with cranberry compote. Don’t forget to check out the 600-bottle-long wine list.

To soften the blow when it’s all over: a complimentary box of bon bons to take home.

A tiny bit of comfort for the drive back to reality.

Cyrus, Les Mars Hotel, 29 North Street, Healdsburg (707-433-3311).

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29 North St
@ Healdsburg Ave
Healdsburg, CA 95448