Food & Drink

Alphabet Soup

You’ve always felt bad for words beginning with the letter Z.

Amy Zork was always last in the lunch line. “Zit” and “zombie” have the worst connotations. And you can sing “zip-a-dee-do-dah,” but you sure as heck can’t spell it.

Zuppa, a new Italian restaurant in SoMa, is an altogether zippier experience.

The loft-like eatery, brainchild of husband and wife Mary Klingbeil and Joseph Manzare (of Globe Restaurant fame) occupies the space that used to be Cafe Monk. It’s modern yet cozy: skylights, high wood-beam ceilings, colorful modern art, earth tones that warm the concrete walls. The best tables are upstairs (they have prime views of the open kitchen below).

Trattoria fare includes salumi (prosciutto, mortadella, coppa), pizzas (with toppings like mushrooms, clams, and pancetta), and salads (radicchio and hearts of romaine, arugula with Parmesean). For pasta, try spaghetti with prawns, clams, and spicy tomato sauce or rigatoni with buffalo milk mozzarella. Bone-in ribeye and grilled pork chops are certain to thrill the carnivorous set.

In sum, a great find — A to Z.

Zuppa, 564 Fourth Street, at Brannan Street (415-777-5900).