There are all sorts of dresses. The take-me-now-or-lose-me-forever slip. The I’m-a-very-serious-grown-up-who-deserves-to-work-here interview shift.

But the most important? The I-just-throw-this-old-thing-on-and-look-effortlessly-chic gown.

Not surprisingly, it’s that last sucker that’s hardest to find. Unless you’ve already discovered Rodarte, whose fall 2005 line features fancy dresses and tailored coats.

All pieces are made from Italian textiles. Coats are constructed of double- and single-faced wool crepe or raw silk; gowns are cut from silk georgette, crinkle silk chiffon, and silk satin crepe. Each is hand-cut on the bias with pinking shears, resulting in a flawless drape. And they come in perfect fall colors like basic black, rust, celadon, pumpkin, cornflower, and peach — with accents like organza cutouts, feathers, bows, slits, knots, and buttons.

Be forewarned: They’ll cost you (upward of $1,300 to be exact).

But no one will ever mistake it for an I’m-a-slave-to-passing-trends-and-overexposed-labels frock.


Available at Susan, 3685 Sacramento Street, between Spruce and Locust Streets (415-922-3685). To see styles, go to rodarte.net.