San Francisco - October 11, 2005

Some Like It Cold

Bar Crudo Opens

Before the raw food trend hit, there was food that was actually meant to be eaten in the raw. You know: oysters, littlenecks, and the like.

The newly opened Bar Crudo pays homage to such glories. Brothers Tim and Mike (of Cafe Maritime fame) Selvera bring a modern approach to the raw bar concept with a menu that’s simple, streamlined, and peppered with worldly flavor combinations.

The narrow room overlooking Bush Street doles out seafoam-hued glass plates bearing crustaceans and raw sea creatures — perfect with one of the bar’s Belgian ales.

Just don’t go expecting sushi. “Crudo” (as in “raw”) plates marry fish like melt-in-your-mouth tuna cubes with ginger soy, siracha, and green onions or tender blue fin with smoked sea salt, fresh apples, jalapeno peppers, and tangerine oil.

The raw bar serves several oyster varieties, from the New England Wellfleet to the buttery Japanese Kumomoto and San Francisco’s own Hog Island. Need to temper the raw offerings? Try the mixed cheese plate with black mission figs. On a budget? The kitchen keeps prices very earthly.

A good raw deal, if we ever saw one.

Bar Crudo, 603 Bush Street, at Stockton Street (415-956-0396).