You could spend a lifetime exploring India. In the meantime, start in the capital, New Delhi, then head north to Agra.

New Delhi
It lacks the swirling glamour of Bombay, but New Delhi is the perfect decompression chamber for the subcontinent. Don’t be afraid to party like it’s 1999: The dollar goes a long way here.

Nest
The vibe is gin fizzy at the gleaming white Imperial (Janpath; +91-11-2334-1234), a pre-Independence art deco landmark. At The Oberoi (Dr. Zakir Hussain Marg, +91-11-2436-3030), the exterior says ’70s, the interiors say timeless luxury. Don’t want to blow the whole bank? Nirula’s Hotel (L-Block, Connaught Circus; +91-11-2341-7419) has clean and comfy rooms.

Ingest
Amritsari Rang (17-e Community Centre, Masjid Moth, Greater Kailish II) serves Punjabi food (naan and paratha, tandoori recipes) in a modern dining room. Cosmopolitan Delhi-ites and jet-setting internationals get their Italian-Indian-Japanese fix at The Oberoi’s latest, Threesixty. Kwality (7 Regal Building, Connaught Place) is a long-standing chain that serves good, authentic Northern Indian cuisine. The adventurous should eat at a dhaba, a roadside restaurant, or pick up some kebabs and hot, sweet chai at any food stall in Old Delhi.

Invest
Spend your rupees and stun your senses at the world’s most crowded bazaar, the Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi. Shop for Kashmiri carpets and silver bangles (called chudas, and one is never enough) and be prepared to bargain.

Rest
Find breathing room in the courtyard of the Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. Don’t miss the Raj Ghat, the striking monument to Mahatma Gandhi. It’s usually adorned with marigolds, a mark of love and respect.

Agra
A five-hour drive or short flight from Delhi, Agra is home to four UNESCO World Heritage sites. And you thought you were just coming for the Taj Mahal.

There’s only one place to stay in Agra, and it’s worth the bill. Every room at the Amarvilâs  (Taj East Gate Road; +91-562-223-1515) has a mind-blowing view of the Taj, glowing white across a green field.

The hotel will arrange a guide for your visit to Akbar’s tomb (resting place of the greatest Moghul emperor), Agra Fort (the Moghul’s main seat of power), and Fatehpur Sikri (the stunning city built by Akbar and abandoned only a few years later).

Then there’s the Taj Mahal. Built by Shah Jahan (grandson of Akbar) for his wife who died in childbirth, it’s the ultimate monument to love. One look at the detail (a vein on a jade leaf is no wider than a human hair) will redefine your threshold for big gestures.

But, hey. India will do that to you.

Next up: Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur in Rajasthan.