According to the Buddha, a luscious spoonful of Osetra caviar, sauteed bone marrow, and beet gelée may be only a fleeting satisfaction.
But when it comes to fine dining, the path of enlightenment just may lead to Coi, chef Daniel Patterson’s new endeavor.
Mellow out to the sounds of Nick Drake in the comfy, twenty-seat lounge decked with walnut tables, oversize Flokati pillows, and fuzzy drink coasters. A small, modified menu features soul-soothing dishes like a nourishing tureen of English pea soup, a delicate salad of chicories, and fork-tender pork cheeks with a side of olive oil mashers.
In the tiny, cove-like dining room, grass walls, a washi paper ceiling, and Catherine Wagner’s miniature X-rays of fruits and vegetables make a meditative space for enjoying the more elaborate ten- and four-course tasting menus.
The modest wine list has medium-bodied bottles that won’t overwhelm the food — or your wallet. And in an utterly selfless gesture, both still and sparkling water are on the house.
Sounds like nirvana to us.
Coi, 373 Broadway, at Sansome Street (415-393-9000).