San Francisco - October 20, 2006

Go Fish

Pescheria Opens

These days you need a life preserver just to order a piece of fish. You’ve passed on Chilean sea bass, limited your sushi (read: mercury) intake and given up wild salmon for Lent.

So, the question is: Is it safe to go back in the water?

It is now that Pescheria, the latest venture from the folks behind Globe and Zuppa, is open for business in Noe Valley. Inspired by the seafood eateries along the Italian Coast, the breezy space is a plum spot for getting reacquainted with the sea.

Sip coastal wines from Southern France, Italy, and California in the garden out back. Meet the neighbors for Prosecco and oysters at the raw bar. Linger over antipasti like Dungeness crab over creamy polenta and Chioggia radicchio dusted with Parmigiano Reggiano. For a taste of Coney Island try the Bronx Italian stuffed clams. Mains like halibut baked in parchment paper and seared scallops flavored with fennel take the anxiety out of your aquatic decisions.

Because you’ve got bigger fish to fry — like figuring out what’s for dessert.

Pescheria, 1708 Church Street, at 29th Street (415-647-3200).