Which came first: the organic chicken or the sustainable egg?

Stewards of the land have been mulling this one for ages. Urbanites can now think it over at Fish & Farm, a barn-chic new restaurant adjacent to the Mark Twain Hotel.

The design is New England fish shack meets colonial farm (teal slat walls, chocolate-colored banquettes, cast-iron doves, and a five-foot antique clock).

A sourced-within-100-miles menu (polenta with crawfish, fried oyster and pumpkin salad, brownie sundae) from chef Michael Morrison (Ame, Michael Mina) proves you don’t have to be loco to go locavore.

Further incentives to feel at home on the range include 40 mostly biodynamic wines under $50, a $5 corkage fee for California bottles, and cocktails flavored with herbs from the rooftop garden.

Not to mention the in-the-works fishbowl room where tripnotic tunes and an aquatic light show provide an ode to sustainable fisheries.

When to go is the only thing up for debate.

Fish & Farm, 3339 Taylor Street, between Ellis and O’Farrell Streets (415-474-3474 or fishandfarmsf.com).