Online - May 07, 2008

Enter the Dragon

DailyCandy Goes to Wales

Welcome to Wales. You know, the place just west of England with the dragon on the flag and “Prince of …” fame. No nerdy neighbor status here; Celts have cool, homegrown, and whole-hearted DNA.

The 21st century has made its mark on wild, green Cymru (that’s Welsh for “Wales” and it’s pronounced “Kumree”) in the form of hot kite-surfing hangouts; the world’s coolest music festival; and new eats, sleeps, and beats. Innocent seaside resorts and uncontrived boozers keep the old-school appeal.

Capital Cardiff
Old Wales
Rub your cheek against the fine woollen blankets (maybe buy one first) at Melin Tregwynt (26 Royal Arcade; +44-29-2022-4997). And order pizza topped with Welsh seaweed at Topo Gigio (12 Church Street; +44-29-2034-4794).

Nu-Cymru
Sleep sweetly after thalassotherapy at five-star St. David’s Hotel & Spa (Havannah Street; +44-29-2045-4045). Or curl up among the squashy sofas of townhouse boutique hotel Jolyon’s (5 Bute Crescent; +44-29-2048-8775), whose cellar bar is a low-key celeb hangout. Cardiff boys and girls play hard. See if you can keep up until the wee hours at Iota (7 Mill Lane; +44-29-2034-4688) and Clwb Ifor Bach (11 Womanby Street; +44-29-2023-2199).

Down South
Old Wales
The Dyffryn Arms (Pontfaen; +44-13-4888-1305) has been owned by landlady Bessie for more than 35 years. She keeps it real by serving beer from jugs through a hatch. Dress down.

Nu-Cymru
Summer crowds are mellow at the Green Man Festival, where bands and fans get folked up around campfires and on stages. Gastro pioneer Felin Fach Griffin (Brecon; +44-18-7462-0111) is a lovable modern inn within landmark pink walls. Hurst House (East Marsh; +44-19-9442-7417) is a tiny boutique hotel whose sexy styling belies the middle-of-nowhere feel. The gorgeous Pembrokeshire coast has big, fun waves. Try Big Blue Kitesurfing for quality instruction in the riders’ art.

Midwest
Old Wales
Pull up a chair at Penhelig Arms (Terrace Road, Aberdovey; +44-16-5476-7215) for a chat, fine wine, and fresh fish. Eat in the bar; it’s more fun.

Nu-Cymru
Llety Bodfor (Bodfor Terrace, Aberdovey; +44-16-5476-7475) is a fab seafront B&B with Led Zep records in the breakfast room. The Harbourmaster Hotel (Pen Cei, Aberaeron; +44-15-4557-0755) eschews nauticalia for a contemporary, cozy feel. The food is terrific: Welsh Black beef, Aberaeron mackerel, and homemade bread.

And, yes, okay, you can say it (once): This was a wale of a good time.

  Beachy, Foodies, Scenesters