Food & Drink

Apron Strings

You always did as she said — except when it came to eating all your veggies. Make amends with Ruggero Gadaldi’s recipe for asparagus crespelle (Italian for crepe) from Beretta.

Crespelle with Asparagus
Serves four to six


1 c. all-purpose flour
3 whole eggs
2 c. milk
1 tsp. salt

1. Mix all ingredients together; strain to remove flour lumps. Let rest for twenty minutes, then pour 2 tbsp. of batter into a seven-inch lightly buttered saute pan over medium heat.

2. As soon as batter solidifies, use a heat-resistant plastic spatula to flip the crespelle and cook for another ten seconds. Slide crespelle to a flat surface and let cool.

3. Repeat until you have about a dozen.

Fontina Cheese Fondue
1 stick butter
1½ c. all-purpose flour
2 c. milk
1 c. shredded fontina cheese
1 tsp. salt
1 pinch nutmeg
4 egg yolks

1. Melt butter and whisk in flour. Cook for one minute on low heat, add milk until mix becomes dense, then substitute the whip with a wooden spoon.

2. Continue cooking on low heat for five minutes.

3. Remove from heat, add shredded fontina cheese, and mix with spoon until incorporated.

4. Add eggs; mix for another minute and set aside.

Additional Ingredients
1 bunch asparagus
1½ c. heavy cream
½ c. grated Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat oven to 450°-500°.

2. Blanch asparagus in boiling water for about one minute, then chill in a pan of ice water.

3. Remove asparagus from the water and pat dry with a towel, then slice diagonally. Set aside.

4. Plate two crespelle per person and spread a spoonful of fondue on top when crespelle is still warm.

5. Fold them in half and then in half again to form little triangles. Place them in a lightly buttered eight-by-ten baking dish.

6. Pour the heavy cream over the top, as well as the sliced asparagus, and generously sprinkle with Parmesan.

7. Place in the oven for ten to fifteen minutes or until lightly browned.

8. Remove and serve hot. Top with more fresh-grated Parmesan cheese.

It sure beats her meatloaf.

Prefer to dine out? Let the master make it himself at Beretta, 1199 Valencia Street, at 23rd Street (415-695-1199 or berettasf.com).

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1199 Valencia St
@ 23rd St
San Francisco, CA 94110