Fine dining? Been there, done that. We’re way more interested in a fine diner.
Something like, say, exactly what Boris Nemchenok (of Uva Enoteca), Chris Beerman (formerly of Conduit), and Cheryl Burr (Pinkie’s Bakery) are doing at Citizen’s Band, opening for dinner tonight in SoMa.
Think humble fare done up with good ingredients, like Fra’ Mani sweet Italian sausage and beans, a “picnic sampler” (fingerling potatoes, macaroni with pickled shallots, cabbage slaw with dill), fried chicken with green garlic mashed potatoes. For afters, there are Pinkie’s Americana-inspired desserts from next door; we love the sour cream cheesecake and seasonal fruit cobblers.
All of the wine is domestic and under $60 a bottle. Appropriate, considering you’ll be sipping it on a blue-gray vinyl banquette, surrounded by salvaged furniture, CB radios won on eBay, and other vintage-chic stuff. And that’s just fine with us.
Citizen’s Band, 1198 Folsom Street, at 8th Street (415-556-4901 or citizensbandsf.com).
Photo: Courtesy of Citizen’s Band