The word “best” raises a lot of expectations.
Consider this bar sky high: Anthony Mangieri was called the top pizzaiolo in NYC (no small feat), so his move to SF to reopen the renowned Una Pizza Napoletana created a buzz storm. Now that it’s opening tomorrow, it’s become a crust-induced frenzy.
Located on a nondescript SoMa stretch, the interior is bare: granite-topped tables (32 seats) and a small counter where Mangieri works his magic (three smallish sourdough pies at a time). The blistering heat inside the blue brick oven (crafted in his wife’s grandmother’s hometown outside Naples) cooks each in about 90 seconds.
There are four choices, no substitutions: (white, marinara, buffalo mozzarella-topped marinara, and cherry tomato), with a fifth possibly on the way. Go with a group, get one of each, and pair them with a few small-production wines from Campania or an Italian beer. Get Mangieri’s signature Neapolitan coffee with a small slab of chocolate for dessert.
It opens tomorrow at 5 p.m., and once the dough’s gone, game over. There’s a no-reservations policy, so get there early — and often.
Una Pizza Napoletana, 210 11th Street, at Howard Street (415-861-3444 or unapizza.com).
Photo: Sfllaw / Flickr
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