Twenty Five Lusk, a contemporary American restaurant opening Saturday in an alley near AT&T Park, asks you to make even tougher decisions.
First, there’s whether to eat upstairs (a slick dining room outfitted with black leather booths) or downstairs (a lounge with private nooks where the 1917 building’s chimneys used to be, shown here). Architect Cass Calder Smith left much of the original brick and timber but tricked it out with modern elements like vertical fire orbs, stainless steel, and black glass.
Then there’s what to eat from the Cali-cuisine-meets-classic-techniques menu: fried oysters with a padron pepper bisque (on the mix-and-match bar menu), roast quail with ginger-carrot puree, seared Maine scallops with a warm lemon vinaigrette, blackberry profiteroles with orange sauce.
Twenty Five Lusk, 25 Lusk Street, at Townsend Street (415-495-5875 or twentyfivelusk.com).
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