Time was, seeing Smitten’s Red Flyer wagon around town meant one thing: sprinting after it for a scoop of ice cream like you hadn’t eaten in days.

Hang up your running shoes and park it on a milk crate in the Hayes Valley Proxy Project instead. That’s where Smitten just opened a shop.

Owner Robyn Sue Goldman’s innovative liquid-nitrogen machine (the Kelvin) means each scoop is made one at a time, in just a minute. The freshest in-season ingredients and creative flavor combos (maple brown sugar butternut squash and candied pecans; banana chocolate chunk; strawberry and white balsamic) top even your childhood ice cream fantasies.

For now, order a cup of the speedy treat; homemade pizzelle cones and cookie sandos are on the way. No matter what flavor you choose, consider Smitten a justifiable detour in your diet.

Smitten Ice Cream, 432 Octavia Street, at Linden Street, suite 1a (415-863-1518 or smittenicecream.com).