February 25, 2008

Orson’s Well

Orson Gets Ready to Open

You’ve spent years in therapy working on boundaries. Mom shares only her R-rated sexcapades (even though you’re over 17). And the old ball and chain does his business with the door closed (positive reinforcement, people).

Well, get ready to test those hard-won restrictions at Elizabeth Falkner and Sabrina Riddle’s hotly anticipated SoMa restaurant, Orson, which starts accepting reservations tomorrow.

The focus of the menu: edgy Californian. Dishes like butterfish brûlée with caviar and radish play with technique. Small plates without borders run the globe from Japan to India (tempura egg with shoyu and spice, samosas with chutney and raita sorbet). Desserts, naturally, reach for the final frontier. Try the Pigwich (maple bacon ice cream sandwich) or a Wonka-esque “invisible dessert” (an intense concoction made with transparent ingredients).

Toss down a cocktail (or three) at the 30-seat bar. Intimate nooks in the historic warehouse — warmed by abstract paintings — are made for getting frisky.

Just try to remember your limits.

Orson, 508 Fourth Street, between Bryant and Brannan Streets (415-777-1508 or orsonsf.com).