February 29, 2008

Club Rules

Le Club Opens

Ramshackle signs with hand-scribbled warnings never kept you from storming the tree house. These days, it’s even easier to infiltrate the boys club.

All you need is a reservation at Le Club (pronounced le cloob), opening tomorrow.

Housed in a posh apartment building atop Nob Hill, the former 1970s nightspot (of the same name) revived by Todd Traina and Gina Milano is breaking out the bubbly. The space looks like your long-lost rich aunt’s living room, with onyx-topped tables, plush draperies, and decadent parlors for backgammon and billiards.

Peckish? Nosh on civilized starters like oysters, escargots, and truffled fries or blue-blood-inspired mains like steak Diane and Maine lobster pot pie.

Classic cocktails are poured stiff. And there’s no need to wage war to get a seat at the bar.

Though there’s no guarantee you won’t run into some little rascals.

Le Club, 1250 Jones Street, between Clay and Pleasant Streets (415-922-2582 or leclubsf.com).