Scene: A spacious, modern new restaurant. CRITIC enters and sits. Peering skeptically into the open kitchen, she scribbles furiously in a notebook. WAITRESS approaches. WAITRESS: Welcome to Spring Hill! CRITIC: Yes, well. Mark Fuller was head chef at Dahlia Lounge for ages, it’s about time for his own place. WAITRESS: Well, here’s a menu: We only use seasonal ingredients from small Northwest vendors. CRITIC rolls eyes (it’s a schtick she’s heard before). WAITRESS: Tonight we have sauteed Penn Cove Manila clams with spicy-cured pork belly and lemon mayo. And I also recommend the Olympia oysters with cascade hops mignonette. CRITIC begins to salivate. WAITRESS: For entrees, there’s rainbow trout with artichokes and spaetzle, and a half-pound grass-fed burger with bacon- and beef-fat fries. Oh, and desserts like house-made Ovaltine ice cream, olive oil cake, and orangecello sorbet. CRITIC nods weakly, orders one of everything, and surrenders pen. Scene ends. Spring Hill, 4437 California Avenue Southwest, West Seattle (206-935-1075 or springhillnorthwest.com).