April 16, 2005

Surfin’ Safaris

Budget South African Safaris

Think you’ve had wild times? Feh. Until you’ve sat ten feet from a leopard and her cub while they dragged a fresh kill up an acacia tree, you’re as tame as a gerbil. Safaris are why God created adrenaline. The best (read: most authentic) ones will cost you, but we found a South African adventure for every budget.

Bargain Hunter
There’s no actual hunting in public reserves like Hluhluwe Umfolozi National Park, but there are plenty of animals and ridiculously inexpensive (if perfunctory) places to stay. Gawk at giraffes, wildebeests, and baboons, then crash in a bare-bones cabin at Mpila Camp (about $40-$70 and it sleeps four), before waking up to a mountain view dotted with zebras. Bathrooms are shared, and beasts roam free — so heeding the call of nature at midnight can have more than one meaning. The downside? You spend most of your time peering from a rented car. And while it’s not nearly as crowded as the better-known Kruger, the park still gets busfuls of tourists — enough to spook many animals (including you).

Trunk Show
Shared kitchens give you hives? Then soldier on to the White Elephant Lodge on the Pongola Game Reserve. Amenities? A small pool area, private outdoor (and fireside) baths, guided jeep safaris and meals (everything from roasted antelope to warthog stew) are included, and cabins (about $400 for two people per night) have silken linens and snacks. Compared to many private reserves, it’s a bargain. The property specializes, not surprisingly, in elephants — lots of them. With a little help from your guide, you’ll be smack in front of a dust-flinging bull or a herd of 35 moms and babies within an hour.

No Reserve
This is it: the ne plus ultra of South African game reserves. The fantastical, all-inclusive Ulusaba (owned by Brit tycoon Richard Branson) is flush with perks: a luxe spa, a private landing strip, sundowner drinks in the bush, and plunge pools and zebra-patterned tubs in the rooms — the list goes on. And with rates starting at $1100 a night, it should. But if you’re spending your time taking advantage of the unlimited bar, you’re not getting your money’s worth; Ulusaba has the kind of access to the Big Five (elephants, lions, leopards, rhinos, and buffalo) that’s almost unheard of these days. Thanks to expert guides and careful conservation efforts, the animals are almost completely oblivious to humans, so within the limits of safety, you can get as close as you like.