September 10, 2005

A Good Oman

DailyCandy Goes to Oman

Let’s brush up on some Middle Eastern geography: Amman is the capital of Jordan. Yemen is the one next to Djibouti. Oman, the sultanate next to the United Arab Emirates, is the Middle East as travelers would like it to be: safe and absolutely gorgeous.

While Dubai has become a pleasurama of (dare we say tacky) high-rise hotels, Oman remains deeply traditional and has, as yet, been only lightly touched by tourism. The country’s supreme leader (how’s that for a title?), Sultan Qaboos (how’s that for a name?), wants Oman to be peaceful and prosperous. (He even foots the bill so his subjects pay no taxes.) The best time to visit is between October and April, when it’s hot, but not life-threateningly so.

Start your visit in the capital city of Muscat. You’re greeted by the scent of cardamom, curry, and expensive perfume — and a rush of desert heat. Stay at The Chedi, an airy, palm-fringed, minimalist hotel with two infinity pools and funky Arabian decor. Recover from jet lag on a bed by the pool or at the private beach.

Muscat, though not beautiful, is worth exploring. Remember to cover up: Local custom dictates trousers or long skirts in public. The city’s main souk is an Aladdin’s den of jewelry, cashmere, and food stalls operated by very persistent vendors. Remember the other local custom: haggling for a bargain. Then ponder your spoils as you stroll the waterfront. That massive yacht is the Sultan’s. And, no, you will never be able to afford one for yourself.

No trip to Oman is complete without time in its fabled desert, the Wahiba Sands, where Bedouins still live in tents and camels roam free. The Muscat Diving & Adventure Center will arrange an overnight stay, camel-riding, and dune-bashing (read: careening over sand dunes in a 4x4).

Other Omani must-sees include Wadi Bin Khalid, one of the few dried up riverbeds (“wadis”) that holds water year-round. Dive off the steep rocks and pretend you’re in your own private pool. Head south to Ras Al Hadd or Ras Al Jinz, the pristine white-sand and clear azure-water beaches where rare turtles lay their eggs after dark. Rangers conduct nightly tours if you want to watch the fascinating ritual unfold.

It’s just another of the 1,001 Arabian stories you’ll go home with.