Food & Drink

Bidwell Restaurant Puts Down Roots

John Mooney raises the roof at Union Market

At Union Market, you can eat a Korean taco while you have your knives sharpened, sample 30 kinds of cheese, and slurp an egg cream as you tuck a baguette under your arm.

And as of Thursday, you can dine at your leisure inside Bidwell, the bazaar’s first full-service, stand-alone restaurant.

Taking its name from General Bidwell, a onetime D.C. resident and agribusiness pioneer, chef John Mooney’s open kitchen serves American favorites with a faint Southern accent.

Settle into the airy space and start with panko-crusted deviled eggs, three treatments of oysters, or burrata. Ease into mains such as Mooney’s Gin and Tonic wild salmon, a buttery patty melt, or braised short rib. Choosing dessert is as a easy as pie. It’s apple, and it’s baked in a brown paper bag — the secret to its crisp crust.

Eventually, much of the kitchen’s produce — including heirloom Bidwell melons, five varieties of tomato, and seven leafy greens — will be grown in an aeroponic system on the roof, just as Mooney does at Bell Book & Candle in NYC.

Sky’s the limit.

Bidwell, inside Union Market, 1309 5th Street Northeast, at Neal Place, NoMa (202-547-0172 or unionmarketdc.com).

Photo: Kate Gibbs for DailyCandy

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1309 5th St NE
@ Neal Pl, inside Union Market
Washington, DC 20002