Like all poles, Vietnam’s are no different. Perfect opposites, Hanoi in the north is charming and historic with lots of lakes; Ho Chi Minh City in the south is fast and brash with lots of high-rises. The dollar is strong, which means a little dong (the national currency) goes a long way. Dive in.

The North
This French Colonial gem still has modern draws, even in the Old Quarter. Sleep among dignitaries at Sofitel Metropole (15 Ngo Quyen; +84-4-826-6919), where Graham Greene wrote The Quiet American. The nicest hotel in town by leaps, it’s all French decor with cushy amenities. The Guoman (83A Ly Thuong Kiet Street; +84-4-822-2800) has the same French architecture on the outside, but less pomp and poof inside. It’s boutique (but not necessarily sleek).

If something is made of wood in Vietnam, the odds favor bamboo. Hanoi Bijou (38 Nha Chung; +84-8-928-7308) sells the chicest vases, bowls, and plates. Fred Segal and Barneys love Christina Yu’s Ipa-Nima purses (59G Hai Ba Trung; +84-4-9421872), and you will, too.

Hungry? The locals slug back bia hoi (fresh beer), before noshing on street food. If you need a restaurant, take your chopsticks to Seasons of Hanoi (95B Quan Thanh; +84-4-843-5444) for nouvelle Vietnamese in a romantic villa. Then head to Highway 4 (5 Hang Tre Street; +84-4-926-0639), former hangout for the Minsk motorcycle group and now the city’s hottest nighttime haunt, to get sloshed on flavored ruou (rice wine).

Art Vietnam Gallery (30 Hang Than; +84-4-927-2349), owned by an American expat with great taste, is a former four-story traditional tube house filled with outstanding contemporary work.

Guided tours leave Hanoi for Halong Bay, Vietnam’s most stunning natural wonder. Book a kayaking trip through Handspan Adventure Travel for an up-close paddle through the postcard bays of limestone formations and floating villages. Ask for Tran Van Khanh — he’s tops.

 Next week: the South. Stay tuned.