Online - September 12, 2007

In Fine Spirits

DailyCandy Goes to Cognac

You’ll always have Paris.

But a quick scoot on the TGV will take you to Angoulême and Cognac, the stately town in the region of the same name. Like its eponymous tipple, the town is an artful blend: part dramatic history, part contemporary style.

Drift Along
This is a walking town of narrow footpaths and airy squares. Stroll Boulevard Denfert-Rochereau to the garden behind Le Musee d’Art et d’Histoire (48 Boulevard Denfert-Rochereau; +33-5-45-32-07-25), then head in the other direction to Les Halles, the market where the dazzling produce resembles a series of still lifes. Pack a picnic to take on La Dame Jeanne (l’Office de Tourisme de Cognac, 16 Rue du 14 Juillet; +33-5-45-82-10-71), a flat-bottomed boat that navigates the river for cinematic views of vineyards, castles, and fortresses.

Drift Off
Hôtel Heritage (25 Rue d’Angoulême; +33-5-45-82-01-26) is a 17th-century building with bold decor that’s equal parts Belle Époque, Brigitte Bardot’s Paris, and modern Tokyo. For the soothing sounds of silence, stay at the elegant yet cozy Château de l’Yeuse (65 Rue de Bellevue; +33-5-45-36-82-60), which overlooks a breathtaking landscape. The river and the trail behind the property make for the prettiest morning jog.

Sniff
Barrels of eau-de-vie can sit for decades before they’re precisely blended to create precious spirits. Learn about it at Musée des Arts du Cognac (Les Remparts, Place de la Salle Verte; +33-5-45-32-07-25), then taste at the Martell Visitor Centre (7 Place Edouard Martell; +33-5-45-36-33-33). Or take a boat from Quai Hennessy to the majestic Hennessy property (+33-5-45-35-72-68), where guides lead you through a cellar and art gallery before letting you sample from the pot — rather, barrel — of liquid gold.

Fork Lift
What’s better than a great hotel? One that serves a great dinner (so easy to find your way home). Have regional nibbles in the garden at the funky Le Restaurant in Hôtel Heritage and meticulously prepared dishes at the Château de l’Yeuse restaurant. While you’re out, hit Le Globe (15 Place François 1er; +33-5-45-82-00-56) for paper-thin crepes.

Spend, Swift!
This is France, after all. Styles (5 Rue Neuve des Remparts; +33-5-45-82-17-31) stocks elegant fashions straight off the Parisian racks — minus Parisian prices. And don’t leave without visiting La Cognathèque (10 Place Jean Monnet; +33-5-45-82-43-31) for delicate glassware and 400 bottles.

Now that’s the spirit.

  Awesome Old Shit, Cute Small Towns, Foodies, Global Art Scene, Outdoorsy