Some time less than fourscore and a few-odd years ago, two fathers brought forth this city’s first sushi club, Sushi Ko, proving that rolls are not created equal. Now we engage in a second opening, Sushi Ko Chevy Chase, testing whether the restaurant can procure the same success. We meet in a modern location drenched in wood from floor to ceiling. We dedicate room for a bar serving sake, wine, and cocktails. The brave fish, both raw and cooked, who struggled here, have given their lives so that we may enjoy flounder carpaccio and salmon ceviche. It is altogether fitting that we sample the 35 to 50 daily specials to prove they did not die in vain. It is important to remember that this restaurant shall have a new birth and ensure that it — from the experts, by the chefs, for the hungry — shall flourish for eternity. Sushi Ko Chevy Chase, 5455 Wisconsin Avenue, Chevy Chase (301-961-1644).