When it comes to shopping, street performances, and the latest arthouse film, it’s good to be a city mouse. But there’s a new game in town, and it’s all country. Starting today, Founding Farmers, a restaurant backed by a collective of more than 40,000 farmers, will serve homey American food from biscuits at breakfast to a hearty Sunday supper. Sustainably farmed, seasonal ingredients are prepared in ways that would make Grandma proud: rich veal meatloaf, potpies, and decadent cakes. The enlightenment extends to the bar, where you’ll find old-school cocktails, family distilled bourbons, and gourmet bar snacks. Just don’t expect farm-style kitsch surroundings: The sleek, energy-efficient space uses reclaimed stone and wood for an urban interpretation of a country barn. That’s a little bit rock and roll. Founding Farmers, 1924 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, at 20th Street (202-822-8783 or wearefoundingfarmers.com).