Of the fairest in the land, none compare to fair Bibiana.

How the regal Italian tempts suitors with a mastery of fauna: whole pigs and near-whole cows become charcuterie and dry-aged beef in her hands.

Never could there be a lady whose hair is as long and delicate as the house-made pastas, like bucatini with guanciale and red onion, or the spaghetti al nero di seppia featuring blue crab and garlic. Nor could her face be as round as the pizzas offered in the lounge.

Oh, to taste lips as sweet as cocktails mixed with rosemary soda and Italian liqueurs (all named for lovely signoras).

Curtains of shimmering steel beads enshroud my heart, much as they cascade from the ceiling, separating the semiprivate dining area from the main room.

It’s carne love.

Bibiana Osteria-Enoteca, 1100 New York Avenue NW, entrance at 12th & H Streets (202-216-9550).